Watch Data

Platinum & Diamonds Wrist Watch no. 3262

Case: Platinum with diamonds and emerald-set necklace

Dial: silvered dial, signed Gübelin

Movement: s/n; 3262, baguette caliber, signed Gübelin, 18 jewels, according to Niton's archive this movement was manufactured on January 10, 1925

1925 - Niton, Geneve

1925 - Gübelin, Lucerne

2016 - Phillips, Hong Kong

Phillips, The Hong Kong Watch Auction: TWO Hong Kong Auction 31 May 2016, Lot 331 Gübelin, A fine, large and incredibly rare platinum, diamond and emerald-set necklace form watch 1930 66 mm. length, Dial and movement signed Gübelin. Manufacturer: Gübelin Year: 1930 Movement No: 3262 Material: Platinum, emeralds and diamonds Calibre: Mechanical, 18 jewels Bracelet/Strap: Platinum and spectacle-set diamond and trace-link longchain Dimensions: 66 mm. length Signed: Dial and movement signed Gübelin

Catalogue Essay This necklace form watch by Gübelin is composed of emeralds and diamonds totaling approximately 3.6 carats. The rectangular-cut emeralds, baguette-cut diamonds and circular-cut diamonds come together in a geometric form, really showcasing the design and flair of the art deco period. On the reverse of the pendant is a dial signed Gübelin, the prestigious Swiss retailer. The movement is also signed by the retailer, however it is very possible that the movement was manufactured by Vacheron Constantin. The pendant hangs on a stylish spectacle-set diamond and trace-link longchain and is composed of circular-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 0.85 carats. The quality of stones really highlight this necklace form watch with the deep green of the emeralds and the old-cut diamonds. It is of exceptional overall quality.

This pendant watch is very important. In the 1920s, diamond and gem-set watches were becoming increasingly popular among society women. The quality of gems was always an important factor for the new female clientele. Gübelin started as a family owned shop in 1855, and Eduard Gübelin was responsible for buying the firm's highest quality stones for their creations. He was particularly concerned with quality, and he wanted to test the authenticity of the gems before incorporating them into his designs. In 1923, Eduard Gübelin opened an in-house laboratory with a focus on testing quality. This was a revolutionary idea and really transformed the Gübelin company. Today, the Gübelin Lucerne Gem Lab is one of the most respected gem labs in the world, as the trusted authorities when it comes to testing the quality of rare gems. Eduard Gübelin is credited for establishing gemology as a science and it is considered as one of the 21st century's most important and influential gemologist.